People have been rehabilitating hard, stale loaves into edible foods since bread was first invented. But the recipe that has become irrevocably ingrained in American breakfast culture is French toast.
Based on the French ‘pain perdu’, or lost bread, French toast is traditionally made from old, leftover slices soaked in a milk and egg mixture and then fried until golden brown and crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside.
While the dish may have originally been a way to save stale bread, the expensive milk, eggs and butter it requires made it anything but cheap. In “The Oxford Companion to Food,” Alan Davidson writes that, although French toast is symbolically represented as a strategy for using stale bread, its expensive ingredients suggest that it “was often regarded as a delicacy.”
Mr. Davidson’s list of historical variations includes an ancient Roman example by Apicius (using wine and honey). its Anglo-Norman cousin (served with almond milk). and their Spanish connection, torrijas (garnished with syrup and cinnamon). I have seen (and created) modern iterations that include peanut butter and condensed milk, streusel crumbs and pears, pumpkin spice and pecans.
But no matter how many extravagant ingredients you pour into your French toast, the best versions are still made with day-old bread — or at least bread that’s been oven-dried or toasted (which adds a nice grilled flavor). The spongy, fresh bread would dilute the egg mixture with its moisture, while the dehydrated bread would more hungrily soak up the custard, rising and filling voluptuously. Dry bread may take longer to soak, but it’s worth the wait. Assembling everything the day before and putting it in the fridge overnight ensures maximum absorption and also makes your breakfast easier.
Most classic recipes call for frying the soaked slices, but I gave that up years ago. Why stand over the stove and fry soggy bread in a decaffeinated state when your oven can do all the work? Besides, while the oven is on, it’s easy to throw in a pan of bacon to cook at the same time. Baking will not give you the crispy fried crust. I compensate with a sprinkling of sugar, which caramelizes and becomes crunchy as it bakes.
I apply the sugar differently in these two new recipes, for separate but equally delicious results. I created them for myself Cooking show on YouTube, Shortcut vs. Showstopperwhere I present two versions of classic recipes, one simple but impressive, the other a more complex variation designed for maximum wow factor.
For the simple french toast, baked on a sheet pan, I layer the soaked sliced bread on top of a layer of brown sugar and butter. As the bread bakes, the sugar turns into a glossy, caramel-like crust that snaps when your fork cuts into the soft vanilla center.
The showstopper edition, inspired by a cloud soufflé, features a lemon-flavored sugar sprinkled on top. During baking, the sugar darkens and spots, while the bread rises and turns golden. A cross between bread pudding and a fancy souffle, this makes for the most elegant brunch dishes.
Either recipe would be a perfect thing to serve on Mother’s Day.
As for what kind of bread to start with, it depends on the texture you want. An egg-enriched bread, such as challah, becomes a cake, with a tender, firm crumb. Open-textured bread, like brioche or even croissants, trap more air and end up lighter and fluffier. Regular firm white bread (pain de mie) retains its shape and remains very moist after cooking, while crusty breads such as sourdough and baguettes maintain a pleasant and satisfying chew.
The possibilities are endless. In fact, the dish’s versatility may be the secret to its staying power. With basic ingredients that you can adjust to suit your mood and keep it interesting every time, it’s no wonder French toast has never gone stale.