Le Veau d’Or, an Upper East Side restaurant that dates back to 1937 and has been closed for five years, reopens next Tuesday with a sensitive renovation by Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr. The two chefs have added seat belts and varnish to this vintage roadster of a restaurant, but the tiny bar (six seats, no food) still sits near the entrance, serving classic aperitifs and flutes of crème fraîche.
The wood-paneled inset walls and beveled mirrors have been brightened up, and much of the overburden of paintings, drawings, photographs and old newspaper clippings has been turned into storage — though some items remain on the walls. Brass sconces have been added and shiny zigzag linoleum in red and black covers the floor.
The tables are covered with red checkered cloths, as they were in the beginning. Some of the old-timers who have knocked on the door may question the linen choice, as most photos of the restaurant in recent years show white or perhaps salmon-pink napkins. But Mr. Nasr said early on, customers dug the gingham gig, documented on a vintage postcard. “It seemed like they used to want to be more informal than, say, Le Pavillon and those places,” he said. “And we also wanted to do more casual.”
Hearty dishes made with seasonal ingredients and French techniques lead the bistro’s specials, drawn from the catalog of what the restaurant has served over the years. Expect pâté with croutons, escargot, frog legs persillade, hanger steak béarnaise with french fries, chicken fricassee and leg of lamb. Serious connoisseurs of dining on the Left Bank are likely to appreciate the tripes à la mode and tête de veau ravigote. There’s no room for tuna tartare, Caesar salad or a burger in this setting.
Mr. Hanson and Mr. Nasr, the two chef-owners, bring undeniable French expertise to this venture, given their years at Balthazar, then Frenchette and Le Rock. Support in the kitchen comes from Charlie Izenstein, the chef de cuisine, who has worked with Mr. Hanson and Mr. Nasr for years. The kitchen is overseen by executive chef, Jeff Teller. Michelle Palazzo is the pastry chef. Jorge Riera covers the wine and bar manager is Sarah Morrissey.
The $125 prix fixe menu features choices from more than a dozen entrees, nine mains, a table green salad and desserts from Julia Child’s playbook such as île flotante and one Tarte Tatin currently made with summer peaches. It is a long list, although Mr Hanson said it had been scaled back from the original encyclopedia.
A contemporary twist appears among the selection of cheeses that feature American beauties in place of French ones. The breads come from partners Frenchette Bakery. But France dominates the wine list. Brand new is a second floor private dining room in what were previously offices.
Catherine Treboux, who owns the mansion and restaurant her father, Robert Treboux, a veteran of New York’s historic French scene, bought in 1985, still lives in the building. Derek Summerlin, one of Robert Treboux’s grandsons, holds the retro title of maître d’hôtel for the restaurant.
Le Veau d’Or, 129 East 60th Street, 212-838-3133.
