During the six years I was lucky enough to live in the center of Paris, I learned a lot about the ups and downs that come with being a Parisian.
I would go back in a heartbeat. But I also feel for the international visitors who arrive with a romantic vision of beautiful perfection, only to be in for a serious shock — known as “Paris syndrome“ — when they learn differently.
Never let that put you off visiting though. Instead, know what to expect before you visit.
Where are the Parisians?
The end of July usually sees an exodus of Parisians, with many moving into their country homes for the whole of August. The bakeries are closed, as well restaurants and shops have a “Fermé” (closed) sign in the window.
More restaurants and shops will open in August to accommodate the millions of visitors who will attend the Summer Olympics.
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But this summer, many businesses and restaurants plan to take full advantage of the 11 million visitors expected to visit the city for the 2024 Summer Olympics. Instead of closing in August, many restaurants and shops are planning a short break between the ceremony ending on August 11 and the start of the Paralympic Games on August 28.
Getting in — and getting out
Paris public transport is famously reliable – unless the workers go on strike. To prevent problems, conversations are taking place to prevent transport strikes during the Games.
But beware of arriving on July 26, the day of the Games’ opening ceremony, when a no-fly zone over Paris airspace will prevent planes from taking off or landing for about six hours, according to the Associated Press.
A woman rides a Velib bike past a rental station by the Seine River. Paris has increased cycle lanes and bike parking spaces ahead of the Summer Olympics as part of an effort to make the city a cyclist-friendly metropolis.
Kieran Ridley | News Getty Images | Getty Images
If the metro is congested, consider renting a bike. There are about 20,000 Bicycles Velib in the city, with many available on large street corners. Since some roads will be closed to vehicles during the Games, it will be a safer time to pedal around town.
If speed is key, one of the most exciting ways to get around Paris is to hop on board motorcycle taxi. I was once at the Gare de Lyon train station on my way to Spain when I realized I had forgotten my passport. So I jumped on the back of a motorbike and my driver cut through the traffic, waited while I ran to my apartment and took me back to the station before my train left.
Talk a little about language
Paris’ famously rude waiters are much more approachable if you greet them first. Say “bonjour” and try to order in French. And pleasantries like “s’il vous plait” (please) and “merci” (thank you) don’t hurt either.
This is true when you approach any French person. It took me a while to understand why the supermarket staff ignored me when I asked where to locate certain items. Then I realized I hadn’t greeted them first. A simple “bonjour” did the trick.
Finally, never call a waiter “garçon” (boy). A holdover from the past, this is considered extremely rude now.
Eating out
Eating out in Paris can be expensive, especially at one of the city’s 121 Michelin-starred restaurants. To save money, go for lunch instead of dinner. Most restaurants in Paris have a three-course lunch menu.
A planche, or platter of cheese, meat and fruit, is an economical and quick Parisian lunch.
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Another budget meal is a planche, a platter of cuts of meat and cheese, with endless baskets of baguettes. If you have a sweet tooth, order a café gourmand, which is coffee with a variety of sweet treats, often for the same price as a dessert.
And don’t just ask for “water” because you’ll get expensive bottled water. Instead, ask for a “carafe d’eau”, and you’ll get chilled tap water, which is free and perfectly drinkable in Paris. And remember to bring a refillable bottle. there are free drinking water fountains throughout the city.
Cool off without air conditioning
Paris gets hot in the summer. But visitors are often surprised to learn that air conditioning is not common in the city. Many older residential buildings and smaller hotels do not have it.
However, museums are usually kept comfortably clean – if it’s for the art, not for its viewers.
Square du Vert-Galant at sunset.
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To beat the heat without electricity, look for places that are naturally cool. My favorite spot is the Square du Vert-Galant, a small park on the edge of the Île de la Cité on the Seine River, where you can sit under a willow tree, as Ernest Hemingway did.
Otherwise, splash your face in the large fountain at Place Saint-Michel in the Latin Quarter. No one bats an eyelid if you dip your hands in the historic fountain there.
Escape from the city
Consider a quick break from Paris and its crowds, but one that doesn’t require you to go too far.
Take the RER A, one of the city’s five Réseau Express Régional train lines, from Charles de Gaulle-Etoile station to Saint-Germain-en-Laye station and walk through the park outside the castle where Louis was born XIV. Its high vantage point offers views across Paris.
Bois de Vincennes, located on the east side of Paris, has boat rides, hiking trails and playgrounds for children.
Christophe Lehenaff Moment | Getty Images
Or take metro line 1 to Château de Vincennes, an imposing medieval castle. From there you can enter the Bois de Vincennes, a forest full of lakes, hiking trails and picnic areas, but where, during the week, there aren’t many people.
Disclosure: CNBC parent NBCUniversal owns NBC Sports and NBC Olympics. NBC Olympics is the US broadcast rights holder for all Summer and Winter Games through 2032.